Tuesday, 9 September 2014

Mountains, Monasteries and Merit

The Tibetian flag and images of the 14th Dalai Lama may have been removed without trace from the country but the ceaseless drive and devotion of the people remain. Nowhere is this more evident than the continuous kora of Barkhor Square around the Jokhang monastery in Lhasa. For some it is a regular routine before work, for others a ritual they have repeated for many decades but the continual hum, spin of prayer wheel, uniform flow and smell of burning juniper leaves you with no doubt that Buddhism lives on in Tibet.


Perhaps the Buddhist philosophy of impermenance results in an acceptance of the huge transformations that are occurring in Tibet because the Chinese have certainly landed in Lhasa! Huge video advertising walls, exclusive shopping, not to mention "Dico's" fast food stores appear all too frequently. The Potala Palace and old town remain unscathed and beautiful albeit complete with CCTV cameras and police on every corner.



The billions poured into infrastructure across the country is remarkable, rail and road have a solidity that we have not seen in India and Nepal but maybe building on the plateau is easier than on the edge of the Himalayas! However small the village there seems to be a government issue playground with the school, new electricity supplies and, of course, a police check point.
The traffic policeman who accompanies you on all long distance tourist buses across the country is amusing but somehow reassuring. The strict speed restrictions and police checks reduce the chaos and danger that prevails on roads in this part of the world.
Many Chinese buck the trend  by not walking in the clockwise kora circumambulation around Buddhist structures, but some young Chinese seem to display devotion and embrace the Tibetan culture in their own way - so maybe there will be a harmonious future for Tibet and China, although there is a growing economic divide between Tibetan and Chinese people.

After five days in Lhasa it was a four day bus hop to Rongbuk Monastery and our first sight of Chomalongma (Everest) from the North. The journey stoped at Shigatse, Gyantse and Sakya towns which gradually became smaller and more Tibetan, and all had major monasteries. We have walked away from mountains in the past with either satisfaction or regret but turning our back on the magnificent view of Everest after a clear morning was like facing away from the Buddha when leaving a monastery.